The Shrine of Fatima
 
 
On Day 20 we left Lisbon and proceeded north, stopping at Fatima. Our printed itinerary didn't highlight Fatima at all; it wasn't even mentioned as a stop. Instead, our schedule called for driving through the university town of Coimbra.

Well, we eventually DID stop briefly at Coimbra (which satisfied the printed itinerary) but we think, to a person, that our tour group appreciated the flexibility that Katy showed in extending our "rest stop" at Fatima into something much more memorable.

Fatima is a Catholic Shrine that attracts pilgrims from all over the world. Church authorities have accepted that, in 1917, three young peasant children saw a lady who identified herself as the Virgin Mary. On October 13th of that year, a crowd (generally estimated at about 70,000) witnessed what has been described as "a miraculous solar phenomenon" immediately after the vision. (This according to the Encyclopedia Britannica.) Ever since, the site has been a destination for pilgrims.

There is a basilica (The Chapel of the Apparitions) and a huge square. It was Sunday morning when we visited. Choirs from many churches, carrying flags and attired in shirts of various colors, were present in "grandstands" near the chapel. It was almost reminiscent of an American college football crowd, with fans wearing the colors of their favorite team! But instead of cheering, there was inspirational singing.

 
Nearly continuous choral music filled the air, and our olfactory capacity was almost satiated by the candy-sweet aroma of melted beeswax from devotees who carried six-foot long candles. Fervent believers crawled on their knees to the shrine.

All in all, we found Fatima to be a very moving experience. There was a contagious quality to the obvious devotion of penitents and supplicants who painfully scraped along on their knees. Some were not at all young for the ordeal.

 
It was almost a shame to see shops in town trivialize such faith by the crass sale of souvenir items. Merchants exhibited more religious goods than you could ever imagine. And they apparently offered whatever merchandise would generate a buck (or in this case an escudo). Among madonnas and crosses, we were astonished to see even a Chicago Bulls hat for sale!

 

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